• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Wendy Brandes Jewelry Blog

Never Is the Next New Thing

  • HOME
  • SHOP
  • ABOUT
  • FAQ
  • CONTACT

Paris Fashion Week: Large and In Charge

January 29, 2019 by WendyB

In 2013, I blogged about a conversation I’d had with a fashion designer five years prior, when he was planning a runway show. I said that if it were my show, I’d use ONLY black models as a big “fuck you” to the fashion industry’s glaring prejudices.

That designer didn’t take the hint, but last week, I got to see the impact of that kind of casting thanks to Valentino’s haute couture runway, for which more than 40 of the 65 models were black. The show moved some attendees to tears, including Celine Dion. British Vogue editor in chief Edward Enninful wrote that it was “Possibly the most emotional show I’ve ever watched.” And just look at the expression on model Naomi Campbell’s face in this photo shared by Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli.

View this post on Instagram

Naomi & I. 19,03. 23.01.19 Couture is a dream. Although it celebrates uniqueness, which is a synonym for diversity, it has always meant to be for white people. From the Forties, the pioneering magazines Ebony and Jet, have been making a great effort to give black beauty the deserved dignity. Franca published the Black Issue, ten years ago, demonstrating to be a courageous woman and a real visionary. To have a Roman brand represented by Black Beauty goes against all the xenophobia in Italy and, hopefully, all over the world. With this Valentino Haute Couture collection, my hope is to deliver the message, as strong as I can. Change the aesthetic and you change the perception of people more than any slogan. Everyone is allowed to dream, this is the inclusivity of Haute Couture. This is the Haute Couture Naomi and I believe in. @naomi

A post shared by Pierpaolo Piccioli (@pppiccioli) on Jan 29, 2019 at 6:52am PST

I got weepy just looking at that picture! Naomi closed the show in a sheer black gown with a full, ruffled skirt.

View this post on Instagram

◾️Closing @maisonvalentino‘s Spring 2019 couture show▪️ @pppiccioli it was an honor ♥️

A post shared by Naomi Campbell (@naomi) on Jan 24, 2019 at 8:59am PST

You can watch the entire show here.

The voluminous clothes, happily, were worthy of the models. I’ve been going on about “floofy” dresses for a year now — a year to the day, actually — giving credit to Rihanna for first getting the big-ballgown ball rolling with the pink Giambattista Valli gown she wore to the 2015 Grammys.

I should have bought this dress, dammit. Click for original post.

My Best Dressed/Wear What You Want awards keep going to the “bigger is better” style, including Lady Gaga at the 2018 Grammys; Andra Day at the 2018 Oscars …

Embed from Getty Images

… and Gaga again at this year’s Golden Globes. As I said in a video about my own collection of ruffled and puffy jackets, I’m very much in favor of beautiful clothes that take! up! space!

This is THE moment to be large and in charge. Post-Trump and #MeToo, so many women are tired of shrinking themselves — physically and otherwise — to fit societal expectations. It’s time for us to go big. Piccioli conveyed exactly that mood with his majestic gowns.

Embed from Getty Images

Viktor & Rolf “read the room” the same way. I should say that the design house has always had a flair for statement clothing. I’ve never stopped coveting the “NO” coat from 2008.

Embed from Getty Images

But last week, in a collection bluntly named “Fashion Statements,” Viktor & Rolf took “NO” to a whole new level.

Embed from Getty Images

Vogue described the collection as:

“… 18 outstanding, outsize dresses constructed entirely in brightly hued tulle: some with puffed sleeves, others with tiered skirts, all very colorful and very voluminous. And, well, each creation spoke for itself.”

It’s hard to pick a favorite. “I’m not shy, I just don’t like you”?

Embed from Getty Images

“Less is more”?

Embed from Getty Images

I think that I’ll have to go with “I am my own muse.” It’s not the biggest dress of the collection, but it might be the most empowering for me.

Embed from Getty Images

I mean, there was a “Go Fuck Yourself” dress, but I have that sentiment covered in my jewelry collection.

The other big-brand design houses weren’t as exaggerated, but there was plenty of volume on other runways. Chanel had it both on top …

Embed from Getty Images

… and bottom.

Embed from Getty Images

You know what would be even more empowering though? A few more women designers at the prestige houses, designing these clothes for women. Guo Pei — the designer of Rihanna’s massive 2015 Met Gala gown — was in Paris showing her eponymous collection, which included a capelet I’d definitely wear.

Embed from Getty Images

Iris van Herpen, who has long done space-consuming 3D designs, showed her namesake collection too.

Embed from Getty Images

But I believe that among the famous houses named for their original founders, only Christian Dior has a woman as artistic director: Maria Grazia Chiuri, who was previously at Valentino for two decades.

Embed from Getty Images

I’ve found that being a woman who designs and wears jewelry results in my giving special attention to issues of comfort that male designers sometimes miss. I think that would work out nicely for the apparel of our dreams, too, don’t you?

You might also like
Words of Wisdom From Gianni Versace and Liu Qianping
Year in Review: 2019's Top Fashion Slays
Throwback Thursday: CPJ Outfits From 2007-2017

Filed Under: Fashion, fashion shows, models Tagged With: christian dior, guo pei, haute couture, iris van herpen, maria grazia chiuri, naomi campbell, paris fashion week, valentino, viktor & rolf

Previous Post: « My Best Dressed at the SAG Awards Is …
Next Post: Wednesday’s Video: Cool Hearts, Not Regular »

Primary Sidebar

MEET WENDY BRANDES

Award-winning designer of fine jewelry inspired by women's history and pop culture. A former journalist who writes about jewelry, fashion, medieval history, news, feminism, dogs, cats and whatever else is on her mind. Blogging since 2007.
  • Email
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

ARCHIVES

CATEGORIES

Facebook Pagelike Widget

POPULAR TOPICS

NEWSLETTER

Subscribe for Email updates.
* indicates required

Original jewelry designs, photos and text are © Wendy Brandes 2007-2016. All rights reserved.

© 2016 · FOODIE PRO THEME COPYRIGHT BY · SHAY BOCKS GENESIS FRAMEWORK · BUILT ON THE WORDPRESS