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Vintage Skirt Styles: Hobbling and Hitching

November 30, 2010 by WendyB

In the early ’80s, there was a brief fad for vintage-style hobble skirts, which are so narrow that one can only take tiny steps. The term “hobble skirt” was first used in the early 1900s to describe designs by Paul Poiret. (Nowadays, we’d say we were dressing “steampunk.”)

Hobble skirt postcard via Wikipedia. Click for source.

I remembered the hobble skirts last Tuesday when I was wearing my ultra-tight vintage Patrick Kelly gown at the Committee to Protect Journalists dinner. It’s so tight around the legs that at some angles it looks like a catsuit, like it did here. But not in this photo from Getty/Michael Nagler! Thanks for getting this great shot, Mike. I’m trying to figure out how I can use it on my driver’s license and passport. What?! I like to look my best on government documentation!

Photo by Getty/Michael Nagler. Note my turquoise Hathor earrings on my friend Melissa's lobes on the left. The flash in back of me belongs to New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham. Click to enlarge.

As I minced along that night, it suddenly dawned on me that I was wearing a full-length hobble dress. Luckily, I wasn’t in a rush. If I had been in a hurry, I would have been better off with the opposite of a hobble: a Bonnie Cashin hitch-up skirt.

Cashin, who died in 2000, was a groundbreaking sportswear designer. You might recognize her name because she designed handbags for Coach, which did some Cashin-inspired pieces last year.  How I wish I had a photo of the Coach bag I had in high school! We all had Coach bags with the toggle closure, which Cashin had introduced decades earlier.

Cashin clutch with toggle closure. $145 on MidCentury Chic. Click to shop.

She did the same closure on outerwear.

Cashin jacket. $325 on eBay. Click to shop.

Cashin explained the origin of her hitch-up skirt design in an interview:

“My studio, out in the country, in Briarcliff, in the old carriage house, had steps that went up to a second floor. And I was constantly holding my skirts going up. I entertained a lot. And I’d be running up stairs with a martini in my hand. And so I thought I’d better hitch my skirt permanently.”

Here is an example from the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Courtesy the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art describes the style this way:

The Cashin silhouette … is … achieved with an unusual skirt fastener. She called this favorite device her “dog leash” in recognition of that simple hardware. The effect is to winch up the cloth and make the mohair more layered and luxurious by a profoundly simple hitch.
There is a beautiful 1964 hitch-up skirt for sale at Swank Vintage, in mohair, just like the museum piece.

$625 at Swank Vintage. Click to shop.

I’m tempted but I don’t usually wear such voluminous clothes. I’d have to try on one of these in person before buying, so right now I’m just looking. There’s a second hitch-up skirt at Swank Vintage that’s already on hold, which makes it perfect for admiring from a distance.

Click photo to ogle.

Another Cashin trademark was orange, including orange leather.

This orange leather coat with toggle closures and an attached handbag is $1,400 on 1stdibs.com. Click to shop.

Orange weatherproof coat with white leather trim. $299.99 on eBay.

"Cashin Carry" handbag. $125 on Etsy.

Orange and camel coat. $150 on Etsy.

Those pieces made me think of the “knock-knock” joke phase I went through as a kid. At the time, my gorgeous sister, Terri Berry, was just a baby Berry as well as an enthusiastic mimic. She latched onto this joke:

Knock knock
Who’s there?
Banana.
Banana who?
Knock knock
Who’s there?
Banana.
Banana who?
Knock knock
Who’s there?
Orange.
Orange who?
Orange you glad I didn’t say banana ?

Except, being a good story-teller, she never said the last line. She would come up with something new. It might start out  “Orange went to the supermarket and met Peach and Plum …” and continue along those lines for quite a few minutes. All the fruits and vegetables would get in on the action. Orange you glad little children are so cute?

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On the Town: Huffington and Didion at Columbia Spectator Dinner
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Filed Under: coats, gorgeous family, pictures of me, skirts, vintage, vintage designers

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Poochie says

    November 30, 2010 at 11:51 am

    I have a skirt that has a bit of a hitch in the back and I love it even though it bunches right at the butt. Okay, because it does!

    Now I want one of those skirts, especially the one on hold. Find me more!

  2. Belle de Ville says

    November 30, 2010 at 11:58 am

    Wendy, super fab post.
    I adore those Cashin hitched up skirts.

  3. NancyDaQ says

    November 30, 2010 at 12:04 pm

    Wendy dear, I wouldn’t say those illustrations are hobble skirts. The era of the hobble was just before WW I. If my fashion memory serves, I think they went out of fashion when the war necessitated women working out of the home (yep, they did so in both wars). Re: the Cashin skirts–I want to like them, but they’re way too voluminous.

    • WendyB says

      November 30, 2010 at 12:12 pm

      Hmmm… I just grabbed an illustration from the description of hobble skirts here: http://library.thinkquest.org/J0111064/00fads.html

      I’ll see if I can find a better picture.

      • WendyB says

        November 30, 2010 at 12:17 pm

        Fixed!

  4. K-Line says

    November 30, 2010 at 12:04 pm

    Remember my Cashin score?? http://line4line.blogspot.com/search?q=cashin Lord I love this piece. The woman really liked bright colours.

  5. Sara Rocha says

    November 30, 2010 at 12:11 pm

    AHAHAHAHA
    Your sister was very cute!
    Let me tell you I prefer your hobble style to the hitch-up skirt. Although I like it, I think it can only come to a good result if one has long legs and considerable height, otherwise I think it shortens you up… am I crazy for thinking this way?!
    Anyway, Hathor’s earrings really stand out in a drop-dead elegant way.
    I think you were in a winner look and although it’s tight, we can see you’re glowing! 😉
    Again, kisses from Portugal

  6. deja pseu says

    November 30, 2010 at 12:12 pm

    We used to do something similar with our Renaissance Faire costumes, where the outer voluminous skirt is hitched up in the belt to reveal the (supposedly clean and newer) underskirt.

    Ah, I miss the old Coach!

  7. Winnie says

    November 30, 2010 at 12:12 pm

    You look stunning in that photo Wendy! Your hair looks amazing and it looks like you definitely stood out from the other people at the event. Glam lady!

    The Bonnie Cashin skirts are awesome, especially the one from the Met. Speaking of the Met, I never visited when I was in NYC all those summers ago. I’m assuming it’s a little like the V&A in London? Definitely on my to-do list whenever I have the opportunity to visit again!

  8. Ashe Mischief says

    November 30, 2010 at 12:26 pm

    I’ve seen variations on the Cassin skirt, but never knew who they were credited to and why– I love knowing that now and seeing the originals!

  9. Tina says

    November 30, 2010 at 12:26 pm

    That reminds me that I had a version of a hobble skirt when I was about 13. It was very long and tight to about my knees, then a section was pleated around the bottom. I used to wear it ALL THE TIME.

  10. sharon rose says

    November 30, 2010 at 12:32 pm

    Hi my dear-love those hitch up skirts and the orange and camel jacket is just perfect for this season, a lovely post indeed! xx

  11. Make Do Style says

    November 30, 2010 at 12:49 pm

    I love that photo – already commented on facebook – just get it on that government documentation!!

  12. Coco's Tea Party says

    November 30, 2010 at 2:34 pm

    That photo is amazing, as is the dress. I absolutely love it!

  13. Beautifully Invisible says

    November 30, 2010 at 2:34 pm

    Wow, those Cashin skirts are super-voluminous. I love the look of them, but I could never wear one. I’d love to see you rocking one though – if anyone could, it is you!

    Thanks for the historical info on the hobble skirts and cashin designs. I knew a bit about the hobble skirts, but most of the Cashin info was new to me.

  14. lisa says

    November 30, 2010 at 2:56 pm

    I love these meandering posts of yours–they’re always full of interesting tidbits. And the old toggle closure Coach bags are experiencing a resurgence in popularity! I found one from a vintage dealer on Etsy that I’ve been using as my everyday crossbody bag.

  15. La Belette Rouge says

    November 30, 2010 at 2:57 pm

    Your banana joke makes me think of my monkey joke, “It won’t be long now!”;-)
    p.s. You look amazing in that dress.

    • WendyB says

      November 30, 2010 at 3:03 pm

      My favorite joke EVAH!

      • La Belette Rouge says

        December 1, 2010 at 2:18 pm

        My favorite part about you and that joke is how you would always forget the punch line. Just thinking of it is making me laugh out loud.:-)

  16. StefM says

    November 30, 2010 at 3:20 pm

    Still have my first Coach bag from high school. (And I use it, too!)

  17. Emma at Daily Clothes Fix says

    November 30, 2010 at 3:32 pm

    That photo of you is amazing – you look beautiful and the light is wonderful.

    I have a maxi dress which is a bit like a hobble skirt. Nearly fell over when I tried to run in it. Geisha steps only. I also have a hitch-up skirt which I love.

  18. Penny Dreadful Vintage says

    November 30, 2010 at 4:20 pm

    PHWOAR to that photo. So amazing, you have your own halo. Actually, it looks a little like a Wendy B paper doll. You should bring a book out.

  19. x Corrine/Frock & Roll x says

    November 30, 2010 at 6:10 pm

    I’ve never heard of the term ‘hobble skirt’ before and now immediately want to own one. Or three. Or ten. They’re gorgeous!

  20. eric says

    November 30, 2010 at 6:44 pm

    I like your hobbleskirt photo, it reminds me of one of my favorite joke bits.

    “I like my women as I like my coffee…”

    ???

    “Tied up and thrown over a donkey by Juan Valdez.”

    • WendyB says

      November 30, 2010 at 11:54 pm

      Same way I like my men!

  21. Audi says

    November 30, 2010 at 7:33 pm

    Wow, you are radiant in that photo, Wendy!

    Do you think that hobble skirts will be the next new thing?

    • WendyB says

      November 30, 2010 at 11:55 pm

      Nah! They don’t make people angry enough.

  22. hiyaluv says

    November 30, 2010 at 9:11 pm

    you look stunning and glamorous in that dress! i love your earrings of course:)
    gina

  23. Jemina says

    November 30, 2010 at 11:34 pm

    I LOVE all of Cashin’s designs, i’m definitely going to that etsy store that sells the handbag 🙂

    XOXO
    J

  24. TheShoeGirl says

    November 30, 2010 at 11:41 pm

    well well well… you’ve just given me an idea for some shoes. i’ll keep you updated 😉

    • WendyB says

      November 30, 2010 at 11:54 pm

      Can’t wait to see.

  25. Fabi says

    November 30, 2010 at 11:45 pm

    OH MY GOODNESS WENDY!!! You look incredible in that dress, the whole look is perfection and I’d be so angry at you if you decided to never wear it again! Ahhh, you’re officially my new hero.

    :*

  26. Swan says

    December 1, 2010 at 2:17 am

    In that 80s decade, I made myself a grey wool hobble skirt with buckles on each side. I loved it. I looked smashing. I couldn’t walk at all! I wore it with a buttoned down men’s shirt, grey or brown tights, and pointy slim brogues from the 60s. I don’t think my style has actually changed since I was 15.

    I didn’t know about Cashin!

    And you do look smashing. Next time have your evening’s escorts take turns carrying you. That way you can wear whatever you want.

  27. That's Not My Age says

    December 1, 2010 at 4:21 am

    You look fabulous – think I need to get myself one of those Cashin hitched-up skirts then I can run around with a Martini in my hand, and no fear of tripping up, throughout the party season!

  28. stacy says

    December 1, 2010 at 1:50 pm

    I’ve always liked those turn-key closures. You need a special machine to attach them… big headache. I’m loving those voluminous skirts. I haven’t heard that little riddle in ages! Made me chuckle.

  29. georgeb says

    December 1, 2010 at 3:16 pm

    Now I’m getting to wonder about these anti-spam words or yours. The post mentions Terribb and my anti-spam word is TERRIBB. What gives here?

    • WendyB says

      December 1, 2010 at 6:09 pm

      Part of my evil plan to drive you crazy.

  30. georgeb says

    December 1, 2010 at 3:20 pm

    I was wondering about that halo around you and now see that there is someone taking a picture from you in the background. What’s the odds that both cameras go off at the same time? I think I’ll have a martini (my anti-spam word) and ponder that.

    • WendyB says

      December 1, 2010 at 6:09 pm

      Yep, that’s Bill Cunningham from the New York Times taking the other photo.

  31. Abigail Ny says

    December 1, 2010 at 3:35 pm

    Loving the hitch up skirt, the pink one is amazing!

  32. drollgirl says

    December 1, 2010 at 4:12 pm

    well your dress is still my favorite item in this post!

  33. Sarah says

    December 1, 2010 at 5:30 pm

    You look absolutely stunning in your leopard print dress – knockout! xx

  34. GlamaRuth says

    December 1, 2010 at 6:20 pm

    Bonnie Cashin is my all-time favorite American designer – I am lucky enough to have two leather trimmed wool coats (one solid camel, one oversized olive and magenta plaid)and two leather coats (one tangerine, one pistachio), as well as an ankle length, long sleeved, cowl necked, fitted, 100% cashmere Cashin dress – in bright orange, of course – all scored for ridiculously low (none topped $50)prices on Ebay. If you really know what you’re looking for, sellers who take blurry photos but respond to questions can be a goldmine. And snipe, naturally.

  35. tess says

    December 1, 2010 at 7:12 pm

    If anyone could pull off that look, you could!

  36. Emma says

    December 1, 2010 at 7:57 pm

    What a fabulous article. Hitch up skirts and Bonnie Cashin. My Mom had a parade of the twist closure style of Coach purses when I was growing up. Great to learn about the woman who introduced them!

    PS
    That dress you are wearing is ridiculous—hot tamale!

  37. Elizabeth/enc says

    December 1, 2010 at 8:06 pm

    I love this post!

    I wish you’d get one of those skirts, it would show off your lovely legs, and it would be a change of pace for you, just like those giant sailor pants you got a few months ago.

    Cashin was so clever; everybody’s ripping off that toggle closure now, and that snap hitch on the hitch skirt was all over Coach goods for a long time.

  38. Julie Anne Rhodes says

    December 2, 2010 at 12:48 pm

    You are beyond stunning in that leopard print va va voom number!

  39. Sheila says

    December 5, 2010 at 8:50 pm

    Now that’s timing – I actually told THAT VERY KNOCK KNOCK JOKE to my nieces last Friday while we were chillin’ during intermission at the theatre. They were delighted.

    I love those hitch dresses. I would wear one in a heartbeat.

  40. Kimocean says

    December 9, 2010 at 2:23 am

    Love how removing the shoulder-pads modernized that dress a bit. That’s such a fun photo. I think I want a hitch skirt now…I like voluminous!

  41. Joanne Martin says

    November 5, 2011 at 7:26 pm

    Love you blog and the insight into the history of fashion (which is also a passion of mine). I remember wearing a hobble skirt complete with a bubble hem – no need to guess the era. Your Patrick Kelly gown is a standout. As long as you don’t wear it to one of those events that needs a quick getaway, the inability to walk is a small price.

    I came across your page while researching current trends in tween fashion in Australia, particularly hitched up skirts and dresses. I’ve linked to your blog so my readers can see some examples of Bonnie Cashin’s work. Hope you don’t mind and I’d love to read anything you have to say about the current trend in fishtail/mullet dresses which I’ve written about here http://wp.me/p1W65R-1g.

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MEET WENDY BRANDES

Award-winning designer of fine jewelry inspired by women's history and pop culture. A former journalist who writes about jewelry, fashion, medieval history, news, feminism, dogs, cats and whatever else is on her mind. Blogging since 2007.
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