{"id":34933,"date":"2016-12-22T23:55:37","date_gmt":"2016-12-23T04:55:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/wendybrandes.com\/blog\/?p=34933"},"modified":"2019-12-20T14:49:52","modified_gmt":"2019-12-20T19:49:52","slug":"rip-china-machado-and-franca-sozzani","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/rip-china-machado-and-franca-sozzani\/","title":{"rendered":"RIP, China Machado and Franca Sozzani"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>This year has robbed us of <a href=\"http:\/\/wendybrandes.com\/blog\/2016\/01\/rip-david-bowie\/\" target=\"_blank\">David Bowie<\/a>, <a href=\"http:\/\/wendybrandes.com\/blog\/2016\/04\/rip-prince\/\" target=\"_blank\">Prince<\/a>, <a href=\"http:\/\/wendybrandes.com\/blog\/2016\/06\/in-the-news-today-muhammad-ali-and-more\/\" target=\"_blank\">Muhammad Ali<\/a>, <a href=\"http:\/\/wendybrandes.com\/blog\/2016\/11\/this-is-an-actual-emergency\/\" target=\"_blank\">our faith in our democracy<\/a> &#8212; the list of obituaries goes on and on.<\/p>\n<p>In the fashion world,<a href=\"http:\/\/wendybrandes.com\/blog\/2016\/06\/rip-bill-cunningham\/\" target=\"_blank\"> Bill Cunningham<\/a>, the original street-style photographer, was a huge loss. But if there&#8217;s a fashion heaven, Bill is no doubt giving a warm welcome to two other icons from the industry. Groundbreaking model <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2016\/12\/19\/fashion\/china-machado-first-non-white-supermodel.html\" target=\"_blank\">China Machado died on Sunday <\/a>at age 86(<a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/thecut\/2016\/10\/model-china-machado-on-avedon-racism-in-fashion-aging-well.html\" target=\"_blank\">-ish<\/a>) of cardiac arrest. The daughter of a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.wmagazine.com\/story\/china-machado\" target=\"_blank\">Portuguese father and a Chinese mother<\/a>, Machado became the first model of color to appear in Harper&#8217;s Bazaar in 1959, photographed by <a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/thecut\/2016\/10\/model-china-machado-on-avedon-racism-in-fashion-aging-well.html\" target=\"_blank\">the great Richard Avedon<\/a> after <a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/thecut\/2016\/12\/remembering-china-machado-asian-model-fashion-icon-dead-at-87.html\" target=\"_blank\">he spotted her in a fashion show<\/a>. She was in her late 20s at the time &#8212; that&#8217;s retirement age for many models these days. In contrast, Machado continued defying prejudices and didn&#8217;t retire at all. Well, <a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/thecut\/2013\/08\/china-machado-avedons-muse-on-modeling-at-83.html\" target=\"_blank\">she <em>said<\/em><\/a> she retired but she still had representation and still booked jobs. At 81, she struck a fierce pose in a one-sleeved look for the cover of New York Magazine.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_34935\" style=\"width: 508px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/fashion\/11\/fall\/\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-34935\" class=\"wp-image-34935\" src=\"http:\/\/wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/china.jpg\" width=\"498\" height=\"642\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/china.jpg 504w, https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/china-233x300.jpg 233w, https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/china-300x387.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 498px) 100vw, 498px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-34935\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Click for source.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Two years later, <a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/thecut\/2013\/08\/china-machado-avedons-muse-on-modeling-at-83.html\" target=\"_blank\">she was doing a Cole Haan ad<\/a>. There was also a spread in <em>W<\/em> and a Barneys ad. Modeling wasn&#8217;t all Machado did professionally though. First, Avedon convinced her to become Bazaar&#8217;s senior fashion editor.\u00a0 After eight years of that, <a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/thecut\/2016\/12\/remembering-china-machado-asian-model-fashion-icon-dead-at-87.html\">New York Magazine said<\/a>, Avedon moved to Vogue, while his muse\/colleague\/friend &#8220;went on to produce fashion TV shows, design costumes for films, and crisis-manage as fashion director of Lear\u2019s, a magazine for women over 35 founded by Norman Lear\u2019s manic-depressive ex-wife, Frances, that lasted a miraculous six years before Lear ran it into the ground. Machado would frequently rejoin Avedon to produce and style ads for Revlon, like his &#8216;Unforgettable Women&#8217; campaign, featuring her successors Beverly Johnson and Iman.&#8221; After that, she had a store and gallery, and invested in real estate. And that leaves out her tumultuous childhood experiences and a wild personal life that included an elopement with a famous bullfighter.\u00a0 Machado gave great interviews, so it&#8217;s best to read those stories in her own words:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/thecut\/2016\/12\/remembering-china-machado-asian-model-fashion-icon-dead-at-87.html\" target=\"_blank\">New York Magazine, Aug. 22, 2011<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/thecut\/2016\/10\/model-china-machado-on-avedon-racism-in-fashion-aging-well.html\" target=\"_blank\">New York Magazine, Oct. 4, 2016<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.wmagazine.com\/story\/china-machado\" target=\"_blank\">W Magazine, March 1, 2010 (fabulous GIF here!)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.vogue.com\/13488762\/china-machado-interview-exhibition-life-lessons\/\" target=\"_blank\">Vogue, Oct. 10, 2016<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.interviewmagazine.com\/fashion\/the-look-china-machado\/\" target=\"_blank\">Interview, April 24, 2014<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/fashion.telegraph.co.uk\/news-features\/TMG9899911\/China-Machado-on-her-fabulous-life.html\" target=\"_blank\">Telegraph, March 5, 2013<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The Telegraph interview starts off with Machado saying, &#8220;I&#8217;ve never dieted, never exercised, I eat like a pig, and I drink &#8211; mainly vodka &#8230; I still smoke, too.&#8221; Later in the story, she&#8217;s quoted as saying, &#8220;I have some regrets that I might have hurt men in my life. But they can take care of themselves.&#8221; Bwah! Why did I never get to meet this woman?! Here&#8217;s one last fact that offers insight into Machado&#8217;s bad-ass attitude: She was born Noelie Dasouza Machado, and adopted the name China (pronounced &#8220;Cheena&#8221;) when she started modeling. As W described it, &#8220;In South America she had heard the Indian girls referred to derogatorily as <em>chinitas<\/em>. She decided to turn the slur into a moniker that pulsed with exotica.&#8221; Take that, haters!<\/p>\n<p>While Machado had a long and very full life, I feel like <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2016\/12\/22\/fashion\/franca-sozzani-dead-italian-vogue.html\" target=\"_blank\">Franca Sozzani &#8212; the longtime editor-in-chief of Italian Vogue &#8212; was taken from us much too soon at age 66 after a year-long illness<\/a>. <\/p>\n<p><center><\/p>\n<div class=\"getty embed image\" style=\"background-color:#fff;display:inline-block;font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;color:#a7a7a7;font-size:11px;width:100%;max-width:395px;\">\n<div style=\"padding:0;margin:0;text-align:left;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.gettyimages.com\/detail\/611581376\" target=\"_blank\" style=\"color:#a7a7a7;text-decoration:none;font-weight:normal !important;border:none;display:inline-block;\">Embed from Getty Images<\/a><\/div>\n<div style=\"overflow:hidden;position:relative;height:0;padding:150.379747% 0 0 0;width:100%;\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"\/\/embed.gettyimages.com\/embed\/611581376?et=uqjFZjSKTcxZgSzkbyPq0g&#038;viewMoreLink=on&#038;sig=m6SUJMWSWrPMiHJTILdlJlD23nYnek3vyT8XAgNcxsQ=&#038;caption=true\" width=\"395\" height=\"594\" scrolling=\"no\" frameborder=\"0\" style=\"display:inline-block;position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:100%;height:100%;margin:0;\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p style=\"margin:0;\">\n<\/div>\n<p><\/center><\/p>\n<p>Like Machado, Sozzani was unapologetic about her unwillingness to conform to expectations &#8212; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.wsj.com\/articles\/editor-franca-sozzani-is-still-in-vogue-1407423448\" target=\"_blank\">starting in the early 1970s<\/a>, when she got a degree in<a href=\"http:\/\/www.wsj.com\/articles\/editor-franca-sozzani-is-still-in-vogue-1407423448-vogue.html\" target=\"_blank\"> literature and philosophy<\/a> (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.vogue.com\/13515874\/franca-sozzani-obituary\/\" target=\"_blank\">her father didn&#8217;t approve of her original plan to study physics<\/a>); annulled a brief, early marriage (divorce was almost impossible in Italy at the time); and traveled to India and London. <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2016\/12\/22\/fashion\/franca-sozzani-dead-italian-vogue.html\">She found her way into the world of fashion magazines via Vogue Bambini<\/a>, a children&#8217;s clothing publication. She took over the magazine Lei in 1980, followed by its men&#8217;s edition two years later. In 1988, she took over Italian Vogue and stayed. Starting at Lei, she boosted the careers of photographers including <a href=\"http:\/\/www.vogue.com\/13515874\/franca-sozzani-obituary\/\">Mario Testino, Paolo Roversi, the late Herb Ritts, Peter Lindbergh, Bruce Weber, and Steven Meisel<\/a>. Her bond with Meisel might have been the strongest of all: <a href=\"http:\/\/www.vogue.com\/13515874\/franca-sozzani-obituary\/\">Vogue says he shot nearly all her covers<\/a>. Those who are familiar with the 1990s supermodels know that Meisel also had a strong bond with <a href=\"http:\/\/wendybrandes.com\/blog\/2008\/08\/printed-page\/\" target=\"_blank\">my favorite model, Linda Evangelista<\/a>, who made so many appearances in Italian Vogue that <a href=\"http:\/\/www.wsj.com\/articles\/editor-franca-sozzani-is-still-in-vogue-1407423448\">Sozzani said readers wrote to her asking what would happen to the magazine if Linda ever got sick<\/a>!<\/p>\n<p>The images of Linda and other models were always bold and often controversial. Sozzani was guided by two principles. First, the image was everything.\u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/www.vogue.com\/13515874\/franca-sozzani-obituary\/\" target=\"_blank\">As she once asked<\/a>, \u201cWhy would anyone buy Italian Vogue [to read]? They wouldn\u2019t\u2014only Italians read Italian.&#8221; And those images had to be about more than product. &#8220;Fashion is much bigger than a dress,\u201d <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ft.com\/content\/b6afc3c6-43f4-11e4-8abd-00144feabdc0\" target=\"_blank\">Sozzani told the Financial Times in 2014<\/a>.\u00a0 &#8220;I am sometimes criticised for using <em>moda<\/em> for talking [about] other matters, but today fashion is enormous, everyone speaks of fashion or what is not fashion.&#8221; Among newsy issues she dealt with in the pages of the magazine were plastic surgery (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.vogue.it\/en\/people-are-talking-about\/obsession-of-the-day\/2010\/12\/plastic-surgery#ad-image50212\" target=\"_blank\">a 2005 Meisel masterpiece featuring Linda Evangelista in bandages<\/a>); racism (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/lifeandstyle\/2008\/jun\/20\/fashion.usa\" target=\"_blank\">the 2008 &#8220;Black&#8221; issue used only black models and had to be reprinted due to its popularity<\/a>); and climate change (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.vogue.it\/en\/fashion\/cover-fashion-stories\/2010\/08\/02\/water-oil\/\" target=\"_blank\">a 2010 feature with Kristen McMenamy looking like a creature trapped in an oil spill<\/a>).\u00a0 Some of her ideas were more provocative than others. A <a href=\"http:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/life-style\/fashion\/features\/domestic-violence-in-vogue-franca-sozzani-takes-a-stand-on-fashions-glossiest-pages-9233954.html\" target=\"_blank\">2014 take on domestic violence raised hackles<\/a>, and <a href=\"http:\/\/nymag.com\/thecut\/2012\/03\/franca-sozzani-talks-about-her-haute-mess.html\" target=\"_blank\">a 2012 feature called &#8220;Haute Mess&#8221; was accused of being racist and\/or classist<\/a>. But Sozzani always stuck to her own vision. <a href=\"http:\/\/www.interviewmagazine.com\/fashion\/franca-sozzani#_\" target=\"_blank\">Her philosophy degree showed in her remarks in a 2012 issue of Interview<\/a>: &#8220;I do the magazine that I think is correct. If you like this issue, I am more than happy. If you don\u2019t like this issue, you will like the next because we do 14 issues a year. So once in a year you will love, no?&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Essential Sozzani reading\/viewing:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Anna Wintour took charge of American Vogue the same year that Sozzani came to the Italian edition. <a href=\"http:\/\/www.vogue.com\/13514942\/anna-wintour-remembers-franca-sozzani\/\">Her moving tribute to her friend and colleague is here.<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.vogue.it\/en\/franca\/2016\/12\/22\/franca\/\" target=\"_blank\">Don&#8217;t miss a page of this 192-photo gallery of Sozzani&#8217;s greatest hits<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/streamingmoviesright.com\/movie\/franca-chaos-and-creation\/\" target=\"_blank\">View the trailer for <em>Franca: Chaos &#038; Creation<\/em><\/a>, the 2016 documentary Franca&#8217;s grown son made about his mother.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2016\/12\/22\/fashion\/franca-sozzani-dead-italian-vogue.html\" target=\"_blank\">The Vogue obituary has good information on all of Franca&#8217;s non-magazine activities<\/a>, including her charitable work.<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This year has robbed us of David Bowie, Prince, Muhammad Ali, our faith in our democracy &#8212; the list of obituaries goes on and on. In the fashion world, Bill Cunningham, the original street-style photographer, was a huge loss. But if there&#8217;s a fashion heaven, Bill is no doubt giving a warm welcome to two&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/2016\/12\/rip-china-machado-and-franca-sozzani\/\">Read More &raquo;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":34935,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1,49,47],"tags":[1048,306,1047,1046],"class_list":{"0":"post-34933","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-uncategorized","8":"category-in-the-news","9":"category-obits","10":"tag-anna-wintour","11":"tag-bill-cunningham","12":"tag-china-machado","13":"tag-franca-sozzani","14":"entry"},"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/34933","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=34933"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/34933\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":44179,"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/34933\/revisions\/44179"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/34935"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=34933"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=34933"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wendybrandes.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=34933"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}